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Cargo Jacket

Welcome back readers!

Have you ever had a project that you’ve been trying to get to for years, YEARS, and just can’t seem to make it happen? This jacket has been one of those projects for me. I bought the sewing pattern for it at least 10 years ago, with every intention of getting to it ‘shortly’, but something always seemed to get in the way.

This is a Cynthia Rowley pattern from Simplicity, and unfortunately it is no longer in print. It looks like some copies are still available on Amazon and Etsy though. I’ve had a lot of success finding patterns that are no longer in print if I’m willing to do an internet search deep dive!

I bought this pattern because I loved the jacket, but was very unsure about what kind of fabric I wanted to use with it, or how I wanted the finished look to feel. So for years it has sat in my pattern cabinet, unused, where I would come across it from time to time and say oh ya this one, and promise myself to find a fabric for it.

Cut to a few weeks ago, when I was staring at some fabric I found online. I liked it a lot in person, but didn’t like it for the project that I had planned to use it for. This was the third time I had taken it out to examine it, coffee in hand, waiting for it to tell me what it was meant for.

The fabric is a light weight wool that has a very subtle tartan print. In the close up shot above you can see that it’s made up of cream, robin’s egg blue, and coral, on a classic tan background. I liked the color in person, but the weight was lighter than I had expected.

During my third stare down with it, something finally clicked and made me think of the previously mentioned, long-unused sewing pattern. I literally ran to my pattern cabinet, rifled through it like a mad woman, and ran right back to the fabric with the pattern in hand. As soon as I saw the two of them together I loved the idea and got started right away.

Let me tell you though, this is NOT a beginner project. This is definitely something that you can eventually work your way up to, if you are just starting out on your sewing journey. The details make it a project for those with some experience behind them though, or beginners who have some experienced supervision.

There are quite a few pieces to this garment because of all of the decorative pockets on the front, and doubly so if you decide to line it like I did. Here are some snapshots of some of the details on this garment.

Though the details on this project made it so time consuming, they are what caught my eye about this piece in the first place. I loved the unique look and texture of the tie front, the cute puff sleeves, and all the great, functional pockets. In order for a piece like this to hold its structure, and keep these details looking great over time, interfacing it properly is key.

I used two different types of interfacing in different sections, in order to accomplish this. In the picture below you’ll see a medium weight, woven interfacing on the front chest panels (white portions), and the entire bottom band, front and back. This will ensure that the pockets on the front have the support they need, and aren’t putting too much stress on the fabric, and that the bottom band maintains a crisp edge.

Unseen in the photo is a layer of tailor’s canvas that I used to line the facing pieces for the front and neck. This will add extra shape to those areas, and ensure that the weight of the front tie detail doesn’t pull the front panels out of the jacket out of shape.

After the jacket structure was enforced with interfacing, I tried it on to check for alterations, and was extremely happy to find that no adjustments were needed. None! I don’t know about you, but for me that is unheard of. I almost always have to alter handmade and store bought clothing to fit my shape properly, and not having to do that with this piece was a huge bonus.

All that was left to do after checking the fit, was to line the piece, which I did with a lightweight cotton, and finish with any top stitching that was necessary. I ended up with a new piece that I’m in love with!

Here are some quick snapshots of outfits I paired it with, hot off the sewing machine.

It really does work as a neutral, going well with many different colors and looks. The pattern in the fabric is so subtle that it adds just enough visual interest to keep it from being boring tan, and the shape seems to go with everything from my old ripped jeans, to pretty dresses. I can also see this as a great work piece when we’re all back in the office. It will hit that perfect note of ‘professional-but-not-boring’, that I’m always striving to achieve.

In some ways, finishing this jacket and loving it so much made me wish I had tackled it sooner, but I also think the pairing of this fabric with this pattern was meant to be, and worth the wait. If you’ve had a project that you’ve been putting off because something about it just doesn’t feel right, listen to your creative gut and hold off until you’re confident. Whether you pick it back up days, weeks, or months from now, you’ll be happier with the results than if you had rushed something that you weren’t 100% satisfied with.

I’d love to hear what you think of this piece, and what you would wear it with! Until next time, happy sewing!

~Amanda

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